We were in the middle of nowhere, between the harsh volcanic desert of Kjölur and the rugged peaks of Kerlingarfjöll when the weather turned from bad to worse. It was impossible to see the track, so ...

In a country as geographically varied as and as foreign to our way of doing things as Iceland, where do you even begin? I'll tell you exactly where: car rentals. I'd been dreaming of an Icelandic ...